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LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – Dear Readers, I hope you’ll agree that while I tend to go scratch-made when presented with the option, I’m cognizant of the fact that many foods are just better when they’re store-bought or prepared in a restaurant kitchen.
You might consider the homemade scallion pancakes and crab Rangoon in today’s column a true either-or situation. They’re delicious, to be clear. Better than what you’d find in a restaurant, though? Well, it depends on the restaurant…
These recipes are perfect, however, for folks who either want to try their hand at making Chinese takeout staples or don’t have access to good Chinese takeout.
I might recommend halving the ingredients to sample the finished product before determining whether to make a full batch for your next dinner party. Kind of like a…Chinese trial balloon? (Sorry, but you must admit that joke was topical.)
Recipes below are adapted from “The Woks of Life: Recipes to know and love from a Chinese-American family”
Heat a tablespoon of neutral oil in a nonstick skillet or cast-iron pan over medium heat, and cook pancake for 2-3 minutes on each side until golden brown
Kane’s Cuisine: Strawberry cake
Kane’s Cuisine: Strawberry cake
Kane’s Cuisine: Mall food court chicken teriyaki (but better!)
Kane’s Cuisine: Chicken congree (A.K.A. Chinese rice porridge)
Kane’s Cuisine: Pelmini (Russian dumplings)
Kane’s Cuisine: Vietnamese beef stew & summer rolls
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Kane’s Cuisine: Alison Roman’s Matzo ball soup
Kane’s Cuisine: Melissa Clark’s coq au vin
Kane’s Cuisine: An impressive-looking phyllo fruit tart
Kane’s Cuisine: Tangy soy-glazed meatballs
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – Once upon a time, I worked at a bakery-restaurant-coffee house in Greenville, South Carolina that served an unbelievable strawberry cake.
The recipe for that cake is a closely guarded secret. Here’s this one.
I’m too tired from baking all day to write more introductory text. Happy Valentine’s Day!
Author’s note: My top cake was undercooked because I should have baked it separately, but I had even less energy than I did room in the oven. (Still…really unusual behavior for me to pay insufficient attention to a top!)
Author’s note #2: I used weight measurements here because if you don’t have the patience to weigh out the ingredients with a kitchen scale, you don’t have the patience for this recipe.
Make your strawberry cream cheese icing & assemble the cake
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – “Mm food court food.” This was my shady friend Zach Bloom’s sarcastic response to my sending a link to this recipe (“Mall chicken teriyaki”) to the gc. And I get it. These days, should I find myself at a shopping mall, I will almost never be eating in a food court.
However, the first time I tasted Chinese food was at the Flaming Wok in the Flagstaff (Ariz.) Mall, circa 2003. I was probably 11 years old. It was chicken teriyaki, on a sample platter with each piece on a toothpick. Magic.
The good thing about making this at home? Quality control. It is the ultimate, the Platonic ideal of shopping mall food court chicken teriyaki if that makes sense?
The recipe is adapted from The Woks of Life. The cookbook (and blog by the same name) is…seriously incredible. Offering both classic dishes and Americanized takeout favorites. I’m obsessed. Cooking nothing but Chinese food until further notice.
Serve with rice. Garnish with chili flake, chopped scallions, and/or sesame seeds
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – My compulsive habit of buying new cookbooks continues apace, this time with an especially exciting addition to my burgeoning collection: “The Woks of Life: Recipes to know from a Chinese-American family.”
As a longtime devotee of the Leung family’s blog by the same name, I knew it would be safe to decide what to make for dinner on Saturday by cracking open the book to a random page and starting there.
Chicken congee (A.K.A. The best soup for winter colds) (p.134).
Like a chicken and rice soup but richer – brightened with julienned ginger root, fresh scallion, and cilantro – is there anything better when you’re suffering through a head cold or would like to warm yourself from the inside out?
No, no there is not.
Prep the rice and chicken broth
Stir in peeled and julienned ginger root, chopped scallions, cilantro, and a Thai red chili pepper, halved crosswise with the stem left intact
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – Remember my fried chicken column? Where I was talking about how many regional variations of the dish there are? And how wonderful it is to live in a world where we can have different types of fried chicken?
Same principle applies to dumplings. (Wow, do I like comfort food!)
The first time I had pelmeni was at Spacy Cloud, a vegan restaurant where my Russian friend worked as a server-bartender. So, while this recipe calls for a 50-50 mixture of ground beef and pork breakfast sausage, I can tell you meatless alternatives work wonderfully.
Recipe adapted from the cookbook of Yekaterina (Katya) Dobronravova-Levesque M.D.
Make the dough & filling
Assemble, boil & serve the pelmeni
Ladle the dumplings into bowls along with the salted, starchy water. Serve with sour cream (or crème fraiche, which is almost always my preference) along with heaps of dill
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – It’s cold here. I shall be making soups and stews until further notice.
Last night, I was craving pho but didn’t have time to make a proper broth. Thankfully, I discovered a recipe by David Tanis (of Chez Panisse fame) for bò kho, a Vietnamese braised beef stew that’s flavored with many of the same warm spices.
Folks, it’s a keeper.
And then, as I was evaluating options for a side salad, it occurred to me: summer rolls. Do you have rice paper and fresh veggies? Good news! You can make them too. It’s easy. Low effort, high reward, and it looks impressive.
Gỏi cuốn (summer rolls)
Serve with soy sauce, sriracha, hoisin sauce…or make a quick peanut sauce by combining 2 tablespoons hoisin sauce, 1 tablespoon peanut butter, 1 tablespoon water, ½ tablespoon fresh lime juice, and ½ tablespoon honey
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – I hope you’ve missed reading these as much as I’ve missed writing them (to say nothing of the grocery shopping, prep work, cooking, staging, photography, and photo editing)!
Like Kevin McCarthy, you just can’t get rid of me. Seriously, though, can we take a moment to acknowledge the stick-to-itiveness that was on display last week? And for a job! Who wants a job – any job – that badly?
I don’t know what was more intense, the fight between McCarthy and Matt Gaetz or the way Larsa confronted Julia with the cheating rumors on “The Real Housewives of Miami” as the ladies were filming Adriana’s music video on a yacht.
Anyway, when my husband and I were invited to a Christmas Eve dinner hosted by some LGBTQ Russian asylees, I wanted to bring something comforting. Enter Alison Roman, a reliable source of inspiration for me always and forever.
With her latest Home Movie, Roman once again had the answer I was looking for. What’s more comforting than a warm bowl of chicken broth featuring aromatic veggies, shredded chicken, matzo balls, and heaps of dill?
(The only edit I made was removing the chicken after it was cooked through, shredding the meat, and adding it to the soup at the end.)
I was expecting my matzo balls to be the star of the show, but our hosts had prepared such a gorgeous and delicious feast that it was merely a nice accompaniment to a fabulous dinner party.
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – I bought myself this lagoon-colored Dutch oven for Christmas, and Melissa Clark’s fabulous coq au vin – a rich, hearty French chicken stew – felt like the perfect dish for its maiden voyage.
It’s also an ideal holiday food, far superior to a turkey or Christmas ham in my humble opinion.
(Since I made no adaptations to the recipe, here it is, from NYT Cooking: Coq au Vin)
Now, notwithstanding the gorgeous photos that my husband took for this article (and the picture accompanying Clark’s recipe), coq au vin is generally not a very Instagrammable dish.
Here’s the thing, though: neither is most of the food we’re eating this time of year. Save your pictures of beautifully colored $28 Erewhon salads until after the New Year, please.
And more importantly, while the dish can be a bit lackluster visually-speaking, coq au vin more than compensates in the flavor department; complex and satisfying, appealing to most palates but also very characteristically French.
So, maybe it won’t join the ranks of turkey stuffing and apple pie, but this is precisely the kind of meal I want to be enjoying right now, at this time of year in which eating is about more than just sustenance and comfort food is about more than just indulgence.
I urge you to try it and see for yourself.
…and if the experience gives you an appetite to explore more French recipes, check out Clark’s NYT Cooking page. (I also highly recommend her cookbook “Dinner in French,” a goldmine for cuisiner en français.)
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – If you are in the mood for a challenge, a real baking project, there are recipes online for DIY phyllo dough – each unleavened sheet of which must be stretched and pulled by hand until it’s razor-thin, ideally across a marble topped table.
I really mean it when I say store-bought is fine. Ain’t nobody got that kind of time (or patience).
Melt a handful of bittersweet chocolate chips with two tablespoons of butter in the microwave for 30 seconds. Whisk until smooth and drizzle over both halves before stacking them
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – When it comes to the small details that elevate the appearance, if not the quality, of food that you’re serving to guests, skewers, like edible flowers, are a light lift.
Pierce a few meatballs and cubed pineapple slices and voila! Good to go.
I wanted something Asian inspired, but Alison Roman has the best meatball recipe I’ve ever used, so I opted to make hers and add a glaze at the end – soy sauce based, so I reduced the salt slightly.
LA Blade White House correspondent Christopher Kane shares his love and passion of cooking writing in his weekly Sunday column
The LA Blade’s intrepid Washington D.C.-based White House correspondent snarks his way through another delicious weekly recipe while dishing tea on other subjects…
WASHINGTON – Every recipe I’m seeing this week is some spin on Thanksgiving leftovers, and the only one I would even consider trying is the turkey ramen dish featured in The New York Times Cooking.
I’m here to cleanse your palate and show you something you’d like to eat even when you’re sick to death of eating and tired of even thinking about food.
Momofuku, I would like to thank you for sending me the chili crisp and soy sauce used in this recipe (also pictured in this article). Both were fantastic and undoubtedly leveled up my interpretation of the classic Thai dish drunken noodles (Pad Kee Mao).
Recipe adapted from Julia Moskin’s adaptation of Hong Thaimee’s recipe (via The New York Times Cooking):
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